Method of and machine for assembling and sewing moccasin type shoes



Jan. 9, 1945. F, ASHWORTH METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR ASSEMBLING ANDSEWING MOCCASIN TYPE SHOES Filed March 12, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet l FL .44548 44 D94 g 0 4 Inventor A/ Mr 81 Witness 50 35-"56 36 ELK/M 32 @W%'Jan.9,1945. F ASHWORTH 2,366,703

METHOD'OF AND MACHINE FOR ASSEMBLING AND SEWING MOCCASIN TYPE SHOESFiled March 12, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 FZ'yjZ inventor WtRess- I 6 jo'fla w 80 Patented Jan. 9, 1945 UNITED/STATES I memos PATENT OFFICE iMETHOD or MACHINE roa ns sam- BLING AND; I SEWING :MDGCASIN 'rr'ra (SHOS y Fred Ashworth; Wenham, :-Mass., assig nor to i United Shoe MachineryGorporation; lFlemingtpn Ni J a corporation of New Jersey i iApplication a 12, 1942; sci-m1 No. 434,365

claims. (01. 112*601 The present invention relates to improvements inmethods and lmachines for sewing moccasin Q seams andis hereindisclosedlas einbodied in a Present day'commercial practice in moccasintype shoe making includes thesteps of cuttin out suitably shaped piecesof upper stock'and preparing thepieces bybeveling the edges soth at theyare assembled with thefaces of the bevelsjin register. The pieces aresecured together bycement and then sewed with the stitches passingthrough the bevel faces at the shoulders formed by-jthe intersection ofthe .bevel faces with the inner surfaces of jthemoccas'in pieces. Toenable the sewing operation: to be performed on a commercial typeshoesewingmachine and ito prevent distorting the edges of the pi ecesoperated upon when the stitches are tightened, the edges of the piecesare beveled at an angle which causes the "outer surfaces of thepieceswhen assembled 'toform an acute angle; However, due to the shapein which the pieces are cut. the s urfaces of the pieces remote'from thesewed edges extend at a comparatively greater or obtuse anglewithrelation to each other, oftentimes approach ing a relationship ofapproximately 180fal-ong some portions of the completed upper. {Thuswhile securing the pieces bycement, it is 1 necessary to flex the piecesoperated uponfroni the greater angular relationship remote from themeeting edges inte'the "smaller angular relationship along the edges,the tenacity of the cement employed acting to retain the faces on thebeyels in registeragainst the forces resisting ilexure in the pieceswhile sewing. To reduce these forces, the top piece frequentlyi'spre-formed fby a separate edge bending operation; The as nt: bling andcementing operations are also surroundformed at thefmeeting edges, asabove pointed" during sewing, in spite qementinaop i ,Due, to) the factthat Y thej bevel edged pieces of, a moccasin type shoe, when assembledwith the pbevel facesfin contactQdiverge along some portions of thecompleted upper at a greater anglewithrelation to each other than theangle outy and also vdue to the fact that the extreme outer edges of-thepieces along the bevel faces areextremely thin, it has heretoforebeennecessary to assemble the pieces and secure them temporarily with cementbefore they are pre:

sentedto a -sh'oezsewing machine of thetype dis closed in the patentabove referred to. Machines l of the'type disclosed in the patent areprovided with an external work support havi ng work engaging surfacesangularly disposed with relation ed by other practical"difficultieswhichrequire careful workmanship, particularly when the moccasin pieces arenot cutgaccurately tothe, correct shape. Also, due to irregularqualities of coinpressibility and flexibility in the materials em ployedfor moccasins or moccasin type shoes the registering faces "on thebevels frequently are pulled apart or displaeed'from proper register toeach'other and extending in the line of feed and with a cooperatinginternalpr'esser having corresponding work engaging-surfaces. When thebevel edged top and v mp pie of a? moo? casin type shoe are presented tosuch an external work support and internal presserwithout beingpreviously assembled and cemented, it has been found to beimpossible'tobring the edges of the pieces-at the "outer edges of thebevel faces into register and maintain them in registerwhile the seam isbeing inserted displacement ofone piece with relation to the otherbeingoccasioned by the stresses produced in the pieces resulting fromflexurenecessary to bring the bevel surfaces into contact,-the resistanceoffered by thethin edges of the pieces as these edges are forced withinthe apex of the external work support being insuilicient to bringtheedges into register or maintain them in this position; As a result ofthestresses in the pieces and the failure of the work support toproperlyiguide the thin edges, one piece 'isdisplaced'withrelation tothe other sufliciently to cause the seam to present an ir regularappearance and often at some point along y the seamto "run entirelyofi-ofyeither the top piece ;.or the vamp. i s y The objects of thepresent invention are to obviate the diificulties referred to and toprovide a sewingi-ma'chine'in which the pieces of a moccasin or moccasintype shoeupper may be unitedprogres; sively in a reliable and uniformmanner without the necessity of'performing separate assembling andcementing operations. A furtherobject is to improvether methods ofsewing moccasin seams so as to enable an operator to unite permanentlythe top and vamp pieces of a moccasin} without the neeessity ofexercising as much care and ati of careful assembling and tention inguiding the pieces as have heretofore been required.

- With the above and other objects in View, a feature of the presentinvention contemplates progressively assembling the bevel edged toepiece and vamp of a moccasin type shoe by guiding the bevel face of onepiece independently of the bevel face of the other piece to bring theedges of the pieces into register progressively alongsaid edges andprogressively securing the assembled pieces while thus in register. Byutilizing the bevel faces of the pieces, the positions to which thepieces are moved during the assembling operation are determinedindependently of the outer edges of the bevel faces and thus accurateregister of the edges can be secured re gardless of the thinness of theouter edges produced in bevelin The present invention also contemplatesthe provision in a sewing machine operating progressively to unitethe'edges of the top and vamp pieces for a moccasin shoe upper in whichthere are provided an external work support and an internal presser.having work engaging surfaces properly disposedv to cause the moccasinpieces along the edges to be broughttogether, of a.

centering gage for preventing one moccasin piece from displacing theedge of'the other moccasin piece. in advance ofthe sewing point. Ashereinafter illustrated, the centering gage consists of a fin extendingbetween the edges on the inoccasin pieces in advance of or oppositeto-the point of operation of the sewing instrumentsand' preferably thegage ismouritedwithin. the apex-oi angularly disposed work engagingsurfaces on the work support. 1 The .pe'vel faces of the pieces areengaged by the centering-fin and the fin, in addition topreventingdisplacement of one piece bythe other, acts as a guide todetermine the posiprovided with a divided tip, the parts of which aremovable with relation to each other and which act on the piecesseparately. According to this feature, thetip is actuated to urge one ofthe pieces towards the apexof the work support before the other piece ofthemoccasin is clamped.v The side piece or vamp of the moccasin, due toits shape, is the most difficult to locate with its edges in accurateregistration with those of the top piece and in the embodiment of thisfeature,

that portion of the presser tip which engages the. side piece or vamp ofthe moccasin is constructed" to yield after engaging the work. Alsoto'assist further in urging both moccasin pieces into' the apex of thework support, the tip of the'presser is roughened with projectionsextending parallel to the line of feed so as not to exert resistanceduring work feed. 7

The tongue or top piece of a moccasin is more nearly fiat than the sidepiece or vamp and therefore, is more easily manipulated during assem--bllng and sewing operations. As a means forin suring that the top pieceshall be held substantially fiat so that it may be assembledwiththe.vamp of a moccasin merely by moving the top piece in its own plane asthe operation progresses about the curved end of the top piece, a fiatguiding plate is provided, according to a further feature of theinvention, for supporting the top piece in a flattened conditionthroughout a substantial proportion of its area to cause all ofthefiexure required in bending both moccasin pieces from an acute anglealong their edges towards an obtuse angle remote from their edges to betaken up by the vamp during sewing. To facilitate turning the top piecewhile sewing around the v curved end, in the present form of thisfeature, the tip of the presser in advance only of the point ofoperation of the sewing instruments engages the top piece so that theoncoming portion of the edge on the top piece will be crowded into theapex of the work support more firmly than the outgoing sewed portion ofthe edge. Thus, as the curved toe end of the top piece is reached,

- the action of the presser tends to cause the top piece to turn more orless by itself. By so doing, the operator of the machine is able betterto give his full attention to proper manipulation of the vamp and'tolead the bevel face on the vamp more accurately into register with thebevel face on the top piece. I'he vamp of the moccasin is out along itsbeveled'edge with a concave contour. Accordingly, uniform engagement ofthe presser tip with the vamp along the seam line at both sides thepoint of operation of the sewing instrument is best suited to urge thevamp into the apex of the work support without crowding out a the toppiece..

1 Another feature of the invention relating to the methodof uniting thepieces of a moccasin upper contemplates a mode of operation consistingin flexing the moccasin vamp while holding the toppiece in flattenedcondition. This feature. is of special advantage when sewing the piecestogether and also in certain aspects is useful where other forms offastenings are'employed, whether the pieces are united progressivel orin a single operation.

With the parts constructed and operated .in the manner brieflydescribed, not only is it possible to assemble and unite progressivelyin the same operation the vamp and top pieceof a moccasin or moccasintype shoe upper, but certain features of. the invention such as thoserelating tothe divided tip on the presser are advantageous inuse whensewin'gpreviously assembled and cemented moccasins according to presentcommercial practice. When sewing moccasin uppers not previouslyassembled or those not complete- 1y cemented, the edge guide fin ensuresan .ac-.

curate and uniform register ofthe bevel faces on the work piecesoperated upon. present machine, a satisfactory seam may thus be sewedwith the assurance that the moccasin pieces will be united uniformly ina preferred relationship. I V

, These and other features. of the invention cons'ist in certaindevices, combinations and arrangemerits of parts hereinafter described.and claimed, the advantages of which will be obvious from the followingdescription takenin connection with the accompanying drawings, in which.

Fig. l'is a view in side elevation of a portion of the working mechanismfor a machine embodying the several features of the invention; Fig. 2

is a sectional view on an enlarged scale of the work. support andpresser, together with-a portion of a moccasin illustrating themanner-oi operation of the presser directly after work feed With theescapes Fig." is: asimilar wiewsoiothe same; parts illust'rating thepositions assumed when the lwork is clamped; :Fig. *4. is a sectional.plan view. ottthe same parts in lthe ptisitions oi mg. (3; Fig. Isis adetail view inside elevatiun atifurtheren largedsoale ofxthemresser tip;Ei'gi 6'is ran and wiew of the work engaging suriaoesron the :pressertip; Fig. "7- is abottom plan view Sofv-thetip; Fig; '8 is a detailview: in plan lookingrrom above the work supportiand :presser tipillustrating the after being ecured together.

The illustrated machine, in its-construction and mode o'f operation'issimilar; except as hereindicating the relation o fthe I I dicated at :la. roithelvamp-is vcut with a greater radiusthamthe-outer edgeportionlflof: the top piece all, so: that when .:the edges are brought together,the shape otthe completed upper will approximate more unearlytthe shapeinto which it=is tolfoe lasted. .uzIn most instances, the curvature of'the.'flatftened vamp is chosen to cause an obtuse" angle. 22 :to i bedonned; as indicated nin 1'3,:lwith the toprpi'ece; particularly at thetoe endwheref the greatest stretching and shaping ordinarily occurduring lasting operations, althoughwhere the vamp is out to include theheel end ot the uppe1-,it1is usual, for purposes or economyin uppermaterial, to cut the inner concave edge For the vamp with a radiussomewhat less than. the radiusor-curvature along the outer edge :of thetop piece. In such cases,ywhen the edgesiof the top piece and vamp arebrought into register; the surfaces of the pieces may ex-tend.

attanian'gle of approximately 180.

"Wheremachine such as disclosed-in the patents referred toareemployedgthe innerand inaT-ter described, to that of the Ashworthpatent above referred to. "The machine is equipped with a curved hookneedle 2, a curved work penetrating and :feeding awl 4, a work support6; a horn 8 having a presser secured thereto; 'a' r'otary hook 1-0which. carries' loopskof needl'efthread over a locking tlu ead casecontained-therein, and other stitch forming and thread hand-lingdevicesof are secured forming a part of the machine frame to which thework the usual "form." The needle andawl to carriers mounted' in abracket l2 support is clamped. Thea-needle and awl "carriers areactuated to cause "the needle to enter the work from above, follow-ingtherawl ccloselyas it leaves the work at the opposite side. I When outeredges or the vamp and top iece, which are to be united, are b'eveled atangle approximating BOPJsQthat when the faces 24 and "2B of therespective bevels-are brought into register, the acute angle 2-8 will be'60' betweenfthe outer surfaces along the edges, the stitches passingthrough the inner shoulder along the bevels and intersecting the bevelraces; Before-sewing the edgesdt has heretofore been found necessary tofasten them temporarily together, due to the tendencyofthe edgestoseparate as aresu'lt of being flexed "from an obtuse angular relationthe-awlwithdraws from the'work, it isjback fed the length of a stitch andagain penetrates the work. "The "awl 'feedsthe'work with awstep-gbystepmovement during successive sewing cycles;

During feeding movement or the work, the pres sure 'of the presser'onthe work is relieve'dandthe awl and work move in the 'cl-irecti'on offeed to a position with the awl perforation in line with the needle. Thework support is formed with a v-n'otch, the inner work engaging surfacesof which are disposed at an acute angle to each other. "The *presserha'sa similar acute angle shape and is formed as disclosed in United StatesLetters Patent No. 23041964, granted December 15, 1 942, uponanapplication filed in the name of Francis R. "Speight, with verticalnotches spaced a stitchlengthapart in the work pene-' trat-ing path ofthe aw; andin .linewith'th'e path of the needle, respectively. When thepressure on the work'is relieved, the presser moves away from'the needleand 'awl sufficiently to enable the and toymove freely from alignmentiwithithe first vertical notch in the ,presser to the second verticalnotch, the notches being (if-substantially the same shape so thatthesame areas of the work about the needle are compressed .by .thepresser after each feedingmovement as were compressed about the awl.

The toppiece and .vamp of :a moccasintype upper areindioated at Hand +6in Fig.

attached to a sole. r wIn order tolprovidez anrea'sily lasted upper, theinner :concaveied-g'e portion in- 10 aresewed together Ibeforelthe vampis lastedor I supportzand the. top piec'eM A is crowded out of.

ship remote from the edges into an 'acuteangular relationship along theedges. For this purpose, the faces and "26 of the top piece and vamp aretemporarily united with cement in the positions at which they areintended to besewed. Due to handlingwhile being carried from oneoperating'station to another, the piecesmay become uncemen ted anddisplaced from' each other ,sotha't before sewing operations can :bestarted,

the correct relative positions of the parts must berestored. Theactionof the ipjresserin clamping. the "118113523150 tends to edges duringsewing.

Thefmachine of the patents is provided with a work support and a presserfor clamping the moccasin pieces with their cemented bevel faces inth'epath of-operation 0f the stitch forming devices. ll. the moccasin piecesI4 and I6 are displaced along their edges from each other or if thecement bond is of insuiiicient strength to hold separate their beveledthe pieces together-properly during sewing, the

tendency is for the edge-of "the vamp to be forced intotheapexi'of thework support 30 as the sewingnperation approaches the portions l8 and 20of. greatest curvature along the edges of the pieces. When this-"occurs,the edge of the vamp |=6...ent-ersu=too far/within the apex of the workthe apex, the. thinness. of the bevel edges aifording insufiicientstrength-to enable them. to be r guidedaccurately. 1 This .-action maybe so slight as .to escape atcasual inspection of the completed upper,[but in extreme-cases, the seam may run passentirely oli the top piece,the needle andxaw'l ing between the meetingedges. g

The Inachineo'f .the present invention is so;-constructed and arrangedthat the separated bevelfaces on the top. and vamp pieces for .a,moccasin l type :shoe upper-may "be guided towards eachother and unitedwith *a permanent uniform seam without thednecessi-t-yof any preliminaryshaping or temporary cementing operations, the difl'iculties encounteredin handling the temporarily cemented piecesthereby being eliminated.Furthermore, the sewing operation, in which the pieces are permanentlyunited, being combined with the assembling operation, it is possible forthe machine operator to give his full attention to proper location anddirection of the pieces while being sewed, with the assurance that whencorrectly assembled, the relative positions will be retained. Thus thereare beneficial results obtained from their edges in the usual way andare presented in unattached relation to the machine with the startingends of the bevel faces in alignment. When the machine begins tooperate, the vamp I6 is forced by movement of the presser into the apexof the work support to crowd the meeting faces of the bevels on thepieces into register, rather than merely to clamp the temporarilycemented pieces in position as heretofore, the presser and the worksupport being constructed and arranged to accentuate the crowding actionwhile enabling the operator to guide and control the pieces with littleor no efiort.

Another feature of the present method of assembling a moccasin upper,which contributes effectively to an improvement in ease of manipulationof the upper pieces during sewing and in quality of the productresulting, consists, in addition to utilizing the bevel faces of eachpiece independently to bring the edges into register, of

28 of Fig. 13 into the obtuse relationship indi-' cated by the angle 22.As .a result of holding the top piece in flattened condition at and inadvance of the sewing point, all of the flexure required to bring thebevel faces on the pieces into register is taken up at the sewing pointby the vamp. The relation of the pieces when the toe is reached isindicated in Fig. 10,

' the sewed portions diverging from an acute angle or tongue piece ofthe upper is held in substantially flattened condition at and in advanceof thesewing point. As soon as the sewing operations are started, theleading end of the notch in the work support acts progressively to bringthe beveled edges together along its work engaging surfaces which aredisposed at an acute angle to each other, the outer surfaces of thepieces assuming positions at the same angle as that of the notch in thework support, both along and remote from the edges of the pieces, untilthe toe portion of the seam is reached. Until the toe portion isreached, the seam has insufiicient curvature to produce any displacingeffort betweenthe moccasin pieces. As the bevel faces are brought intoregister aboutthe toe portions of the seam, however, the pattern inwhich the pieces are cut tends to cause the outer surfaces remote fromthe edges to assume an obtuse angular relationship instead of acuteangle positions, but the portions of the seam already sewn resist thechange.

Inovercoming the resistance offered, the pieces themselves are flexed bythe presser from the acute angle relationship indicated by the angleatthe edges to an obtuse angle remote from the edges'while the unsewedportions tend to hold their separated and flattened condition. Whilesewing the toe portion of the seam, the top piece is turned graduallywithin its own plane and the vamp is bent while being crowded by thepresser into the apex of the V-notch in the work support. After leavingthe work support, the sewed portions of the pieces are released fromengagement by the presser so that the bent vamp tends to straighten outand the flattened top piece takes up the flexure released from the vamp,thus balancing the .forces tending to bend the pieces along the seamline.

Not only is the top piece more easily manipulated while held inflattened condition, but the flexure required to-bring the bevel faceson the pieces into register at the sewing point. For this reason, thereis a, greater tendency for the sewed edges to gap in a completedmoccasin sewed according to prior methods.

To prevent the force of the presser while acting to crowd the edge ofone moccasin piece into the apex of the Work support from displacing theedge of the other piece, the illustrated machine is provided with acentering gage in the form of a fin 30 secured between two separableportions of the work support at the apex of the angle formed by the workengagingsurfaces. At the leading edge of the fin 3i) is an enlarged area32 to insure entrance between the bevel faces on the pieces with thegreatest possible degree of curvature along, the toe. Opposite the pointof sewing operations, the fin 30 extends in the direction of feedsufiiciently to enter'a short distance between the edges of the moccasinpieces, theexposed edge 3d of the fin clearing the seam line so as notto interfere with the needle and awl. By this construction, the 10-cations of the edges on the moccasin pieces are correctly maintained atall times.

For purposes of improving visibility and convenience in manipulation ofthe temporarily cemented moccasin pieces while being sewed, the toppiece I4 is usually presented to the lower work engaging surface of thework support and the vamp to the uppermost work engaging sur face, thevamp being narrower than the top piece, thus interfering to a lessdegree with the operators line of vision. With the construction of thepresent machines, the separated moccasin pieces are intended to bepresented in the same manner as previously.

The presser of the present machine has its work engaging surfacesdisposed at the same angle as those within the notch in the work support and is provided with a divided tip, the upper section 36 of whichacts with a yielding pressure: om-the: ramp;-atwflioth.v sides; ofizthepaths ofxneedle and awlat'o 355181;? in securing" the vamp in positionwhile flexing the edge and crowding it intov conformity'with the anleuof theawork support. against: the; centering fingatgthe apex, of ithe angle. The; other ;1cwer,:section;x3&:iofc:the

tip is provided with 'a, surface.- having. araised portion 40; acting:separately. orrthe top-piece. oi the: moccasin atza. location along:thewseamz line with reference -.tothe: direction rot: feed in ad: Vance:onlyiot theneedle and awl pathsasot-that V dition both at the; edge'and.remotetfromsthe as; the presser 1 moves towards the work support in.vclamping "the work, theretis abtendcnc'yr: to urgerthe edge otthe: tonpieceralon mthait pore tion which is, entering-the notch: of; the: worksupport from r the ymore into 1 the apex of the work; support than .1along: the; s w d portion of. the; top: piece 1 1 edge which L15 leavintheuworlc support at thee-loft. With sca lion arrangement; when: the:toe; portion of: theumoce casin seam is reached. thcizclamningection oithe presser foot causes a .moveme be: imparted to the 116111 1 6 3 hedircction of the: arrow tzml iight) without requirinsl emt sneciakefioiit'on'the part ot theoperatort ens sibling; the operator togive a full: att ntionim omaninuiation ofithe-vamp;1 i t The; Mam-pengaging section -fifi oithe; .n csser tip :is a; on wedge shape at i s:forward morn 11 gaging end. and is roughened; tiwith. ;.elonea dprotections 44aiextendin rparalleito theline oi feed, for obtaining ahetterlzgrin on the vamp-to cause it. to be-urged moron-deep y :into:the apex T Offlthfiv worksupport: zwhenwthcu presser :ciamns the work.Connecting the forward cnd.rofw.. he Dr e ip section 3815: a semi-circuar shank shdinolv mounted inrthe. upper-4.11mi ot a round socketAfl inthe hornandi hailing ,atthe dentition: posits its. work uengaainglqendtat c il y c rcular seat 145 against which rill-1Q Q nD BSS Il nu fiing- Meets. The socket 48 is arranged in thethoi n to enable. the vampengagin tinScctiQncfi .0 slide; in. the .dixcctionz; "of Presser imowmcn t wardsancl fromxrtheWMk.sunpo 'tn ne sprint 50:; is retained.withima passage watthe :unncr end Oflthe hornbla'iiniine twithzthesc ketandg s heldundencompressionw hot n: adjustable set screw 52 threadedinto; hey sn neqzreta nins passage.v i t t The lower top piece.engagingsectionwta of the Dresser tin-is rout iaway along itswork-{engaging end to sformw-the raised :portionrfll; which 118} on itswork engagingface a series .ofelongate gnrow ieictions. similar to:those indicated fiat M :on the vampiengagingzsection of the tips; heshank of: the top pieces-engaging section "38 .SNOf semi-a circularshape fitting withinuathe Jewell; half 1. f the socket 4% in :the chem:8 and being w secured rigidly; within the :socketaby a clamp -screw idpassing through. thesidc walls, of the socket into theshankofkthesection 38a The fully circular end of the vamp engagingtipsectifln ,36 inotlpnly forms theseat 4E iforfthespring ziiiobutoverlies thesend of :the section :38 i. to vprovide I-a limiting stopresisting-the forward movement. of ithe sectionflfiunder theinfluencesof the springJ SO "(see Fig. *2). The two sectionszare so arrnged: that before 'thesworki is clamped during each sewin cycle; the:vampengaging section fifiniproiects towards the corresponding :workengaging 1 surface onothe work? support somewhatiurthfih han the toppiece wengaging section 33 :to its 'ccifrer' spending workt'supportsurface. A the ipressei tip moves towardsthe workrsupportglthcsec onfirst. engages andscrowds wthev rv lfrmxtirtto the N;

stantial areaoi the tODwDiQQG, as. ill ustrated Figs; 8 and 9'.

The, pressen ttip .acts, with. the plate to flatten the top picce at;thesame time or directly after the vamp is crowded into the apexof the.worksupport. during each-sewing cycle. The toppieceswpportingplateue-xtends akenwp ace T only slightly beyondcthe sewing; .point; inthe...di-= rection of feed to enable the moccasimpieces to assume, a.relationship determined; by: the-force's set up in 'thespiecesdnringksewing the. sewed portion of the. top pieceheing; unsupportedafterleaving the plate; .58.: Afton thento-p. piece leaves. thesupporting plate, the .fiexect vamp tends to straighten out andthe:flattenedltophpieoettakes up the fiexure releasedfcromthehvampuntitthe. resilient forces within thei piecessubstantiallybalance each, othen- When this occurs,, the posit tions of the pieces.will enable lthecseam toash sumc smoothly pro ressing :chansen curvaturearound the toolportiomwithout irregularitiessore dineril-gresulting frominaccurate register; of:

the .beyelfaces the edges of v the pieces. and

will producea uniformly; tightiointwith a maxi mum; possible pressureshct tecn. theg egzposedi edges of one picces,.-.tendina to holdtheiedges eetheriagainst thest ndencyuto. gape The shape of theseamwiththe ztonlpiecc heldnat, Willconform mor 'ec uretel-y to. theccnfiguration f; th ton ni ce. nd w iiceuse. the. commeted,

occasintc have a hotter shancjion la'S-t nBU-D'Hl:

pos s; than thos moccasin;upperssewedt b men formin the; :t p niece-withan; angular flange around i s ma sn. t

The :mechanismfor actua n thelnress'erto;

wards andtrom the work sup-port during each sewinsfiycle isthc same asemployed inthe smart chin ot? the patents above identified This; mecnismconsist briefly; ofrza linkqit connecting the horn -8 abovets..tulcrumwith a floating lever.

11. a: link 1.62 a connecting the lever ca. with. a Presser foot:actuating spring ;4., a presses foot lock 55 :connected. to the fulcrumthe floating lever and actuated a 1 lever 68 iengasinaa m one sewinstheir; 11!] and i a cam actuated love:

spring it .l Inenthas, A. it the snrih ifit ordii ne ily i ufficient.tQHQKf M the ressure of thc-snrinsifitifcrn ssfiemins cthet the ac. tionoiheoresset vo rs na hs occ w thenetch nature ,t. toqondiust.thctsetscrewiir i l notcbeesemns ssedsinii yicl in lucnsaacsthermal M i he zprc ser; heats is.-

necessary, in order that the top piece will be clamped securely, toadjust the timing of the lock 66 and the connection between the link 14along a'slot 16 in the lever I2 so that after the fulcrum for thefloating lever is locked in each sewin'g cycle, there will be a positivemovement imparted to the horn B.

The fulcrum for the horn 8 consists of an eccentric pivot l'l, theeccentric portion of which is adjustably secured by a set screw I8within a bracket 80 fast on the machine frame to insure that the section36 of the presser will engage the moccasin vamp before the pressersection 38 engages the top piece. The horn is formed with spaced bearingportions, as indicated in Fig. 11,

surrounding'the' ends of the pivot 11, so that when the pivot isrotated, it will cause the horn to be raised or lowered with respect tothe work support. I

' The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, andanembodiment of the invention having been specifically described, whatis claimed is: I

'1. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of thebevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, thecombination with a work support having work engaging surfaces disposedat an angle with relation to each other and extending in the directionof feed, a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the pieces into theapex formed by the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the worksupport, and stitch forming devices including a work penetratinginstrument operating across the apex of the work support, of guidingmeans on the work support arranged to engage the bevel faces of thepieces to bring the edges progressively into register with the bevelfaces in the path of the stitch forming devices.

2. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of thebevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam alon theedges, the combinationwith a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at ananglewith relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed,a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the pieces into the apex formedby the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support,and stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrumentoperating across the apex of the work support, of a gage at the apex ofthe work support arranged to extend between the bevel faces of thepieces and to bring the edges of the pieces into register progressivelywith the bevel faces in the path of the stitch forming devices.

3. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges-of thebevel edged 'top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, thecombination with stitch forming devices including a work penetratinginstrument, and a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed atan angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction offeed and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apexformed by the angularly disposed work penetrating instrument,- anda tipon the presser constructed and actuated to clamp the moccasin piecesseparately during each sewing cycle.

4. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of thebevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, thecombination with stitch forming devices including a work penetratinginstrument, and a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed atan angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction offeed'and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into theapex' formed by the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of thework support with the bevel faces registering in the path of opera tionof the stitch forming devices, of a centering fin on the work supportextending in the direction of feed from the apex of the angularlydisposed work engaging surfaces of the work sup port opposite the pointof operation of the work penetrating instrument.

5. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of thebevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin .type shoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, thecombination with stitch forming devices including a work penetratinginstrument, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at anangle with relation to each other and extending in the direction offeed, a work supporting horn actuated towards and from the apex of theangularly disposed surfaces on the work support, and a presser acting toclam the moc-' casin pieces against said angularly disposed workengaging surfaces, of a divided tip on the presser, the parts of whichare relatively movable, for enabling the presser to engage the moccasinpieces and to move the pieces separately towards the apex of the worksupport while clamping them.

. 6. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of thebevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, thecombination with stitch forming de-. vices including a work penetratinginstrument, a work support having fixed work engaging surfaces disposedat an angle with relation to each other and extending in the directionof feed to form an apex, a work supporting horn actuated" towards andfrom the apex of the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of thework support, and a presser acting to clamp the moccasin pieces againstthe angularly disposed surfaces of the work support, of a yielding tipon the presser having a work engaging surface roughened with elongatedprojections extending parallel to the line of feed for causing thepresser tip to urge the moccasin piece engaged thereby towards the apexof the work support while clamping said piece.

7. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of thebevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, thecombination with stitchforming devices including a work penetratinginstrument, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at anangle with relation to each other and extending in the direction offeed, a work supporting horn actuated towards and from the apex of the.angularly disposed'surfaces onthe work support, and a presser acting to.clamp th moccasin pieces against said angularly 'dis-L assumes,

posed workengagi ngsurfaces, of a divided tip on the presser, thepartsof which are relativelymovable, for enabling the presser to engagethe moocasin piecesseparately and tomove towards the apex of theworksupportafter clamping one of said pieces, and a centering gage forpreventing one moccasin piece from displacing the edge of the otherpiece from the apex of the work support while being clamped. *8. In amachine forbringing together progressively theedges of the beveledgedtop and vamp pieces of a moccasin type,she upper andfsimultaneouslyinserting a permanent seam along the edges, 'the combination withstitchforming devices including a work penetrating instrument, a work supporthaving work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle with relation to eachotherv and extending in the direction of feedga work supporting hornactuated towards andfrom the apex of the angularly disposed workengaging surfaces of the work support, of a divided tip having surfacesdisposed at an angle to each other correspondingwith the angle of thework engaging surfaces onthe work support and comprising relativelymovable sections, one of which is rigidly secured to'the hornand theother of which isrnounted to yield on the hornin the direction ofmovement of the horn towardsand from the work support to cause" thetipsectionse cured rigidly tothe horn to crowd the moccasin pieceengaged thereby into the apex of the work support before the other of'said moccasin pieces is clamped. 1

9. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of thebevel edged top and vamp pieces ofa moccasin type shoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seamalong' the edges, thecombinationwith stitchforming de vi'cesincluding a workpenetratinginstrument, a

work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle withrelation to each other and extending in the direction of feedand apresser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apex formed bythe ang'ularlydisposed work engaging surfaces of the work support withthe port aduring each sewing ccy'cle before the top piece is clamped. iti 11.;In" a machine: for: bringing. together progressively the edges ofthe bevel edged? top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, thecombination with stitch "forming devicesincluding a work penetratinginstrument,

a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at anangle withrelation to each other andextending in the direction of feed and apresseracting onthe pieces to crowd the edges into the apex formed bythe 'angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support withthe bevel faces registering in the path of operation of the stitchforming devices, of a plate onthe worksupport'for supporting the toppiece of the upper-in "flattened condition both at the edge and remotefrom the edge to cause all the flexure atthe sewing point required inbringing the bevel faces into register to be taken up by the vamploftheassembledmoccasinupper, and

a divided tip on'the presser having a yielding section acting on thevamp and extending closer towards the adjacent surface on the worksupportbefore clampingthe moccasinpiecesthan the-other section'to 'its'adjacent work support be'velfaces registering inthe path of operation ofthe stitch forming devices, of a plate on the work supportforfisupporting the top piece of the upper in flattened condition bothat the edge and remote from the edge to cause all the flexure at thesewing point required in bringing the bevel faces into register 'tobetaken up bythe vvamp of the assembled moccasin upper. 10. In a machinefor bringing together progressively the edges of t the bevel edged topand vamp pieces of a moccasin typelshoe upper and surface to cause theedge-of the vamp to be crowdedinto the apex of the worksupportflbeforethetop piece is' clamped. i

12;In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of thebevel edged top and vamp pieces ofa moccasin type shoe upper andsimultaneously insertinga permanent seam along the edges, thecombination with stitch forming devices including a work penetratinginstrumerit, a Work support having work engaging surfaces disposed atanangle with relation to each other-and extending in the direction offeed and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apexformed by the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the worksuppor'tkwith the bevel faces registering in the pathof operation oi thestitch-forming devices,

of a-plateon the work supportfor supportingth'e top piece4of the upperin flattened condition both at the edge'andremote from the edge to'eauseall the "fiexure at the sewing point resimultaneously inserting apermanent seam along the edges, the combination with stitch formingdevices including a work penetrating instrument, a work support havingwork engagin'gsur-;

faces disposed at an angle with relation to each otherand extending inthe direction of" feed and a presser acting on the pieces tofcrowd theedges into the apex formed by the angularly disposed work engagingsurfaces of the worksupport with i the bevel faces registering in thepath of operation of the stitch forming devices, of a plate on theworksupport fonsupportingthe top piece of the upper in flattened conditionboth at the edge and remote from the edge to causeall the flexure at thesewing point required in bringing thebevel faces into register to betaken up by i the vamp of the assembled moccasin upper, and autip on thepresser constructed and actuated to crowd the vamp intothe apex oftheWork"supwork' support more firmly towards the the sewed portion ofthe top" piece edge.

l3. In a machine for bringing together pro gressively the edges of thebevel edgedtop and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, thecombinationwith stitch forming devices" including a work penetratinginstrument, a work support having work engaging sur-'" faces disposed atan angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction offeed and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edgesinto the apexformed by the angularly disposed workengaging surfaces ofthe worksupport with the'bevel faces registering in the path of operation of thestitch formingdevices,

apex than of a plate onthe' w'or'k' support for supporting the top pieceof the upper in flattened condition both at the edge and remote from theedge to cause all the flexure at the sewing point required in bringingthe bevel faces into register to be taken up by the vamp of theassembled moccasin upper, and a tip on the presser acting on themoccasin top piece at a location with reference to the direction of workfeed in advance only of the pointof operation of the penetratinginstrument to cause the presser while crowding the top piece into theapex of the work support to urge the edge of the top piece along thatportion which is entering the notch of the work support more firmlytowards the apex than the sewed portion of the top piece edge and actingon the moccasinvamp along the seam line at both sides the point ofoperation of the penetrating instrument to crowd the vamp uniformly intothe apex of the work support.

14. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edge of thebevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, thecombination with stitch forming devices including a work penetratinginstrument, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at anangle with relation to each other V and extending in the direction offeed and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apexformed by the angularly disposed work engagin surfaces of the worksupport with the bevel faces registering in the path of operation of thestitch forming devices, of a tip 'on the presser provided with a firstsurface having a raised portion acting on the top piece of the moccasinat a location along the seam line in advance only of the point ofoperation of the penetrating instrument and With a second surface at anangle to the first surface acting on the vamp of the moccasin along theseam line at both sides the point of operation of the penetratinginstrument.

15. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of thebevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin typeshoe upper andsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, thecombination with stitch forming device including a work penetratinginstrument, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at anangle with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feedand a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apexformed by the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the worksupport with the bevel faces registering in the path of operation of thestitch forming devices, of a tip on the presser provided with a firstsurface having a raised portion acting on the top piece of the moccasinat a location along the seam line in advance only of the point ofoperation of the penetrating instrument and with a second surface at anangle to the first surface acting on the vamp of the moccasin along theseam line at both sides the point of operation of the penetratinginstrument, and means for causing the second 1 surface of the pressertip to engage the moccasin vamp before the first surface engages the toppiece. I

16. In a machine for sewing the top or tongue and side pieces for anunlasted moccasin shoe upper cut to be assembled with the outer surfacesdiverging from each other and the surfaces along the edges disposed atan angle with relation to each other smaller-than the angle more remotefrom the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including awork penetrating instrument, a work support having work engagin surfacesdisposed at an angle corresponding to that of the outer surfaces alongthe edges of' the moccasin pieces, and a presser acting on the pieces tocrowd the edges into the apex of the angularly disposed work engagingsurfaces of the work support, of a centering fin on the work supportopposite the point of operation of the work penetrating instrumentextending in the direction of feed between the edges of the moccasinpieces opposite the operating point of the penetratin instrument withits exposed edge clear of the seam line.

17. In a machine for sewing the top or tongue and side pieces for anunlasted moccasin shoe upper cut to be assembled with the outer surfacesdiverging from each other and the surfaces along the edges disposed atan angle with relation to each other smaller than the angle more remotefrom the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including awork penetrating instrument, a work support having work engagingsurfaces disposed at an angle correspondingto that of the outer surfacesalong the edges of the moccasin pieces, and a presser acting on thepieces to crowd the edges into the apex of the angularly disposed workengaging surfaces of the work support, of a divided tip on the presserthe parts of which are relatively movable for causing the presser to clm the moccasin pieces separately, and mechanism for actuating thepresser to urge the side piece within the apex of the angularly disposedsurfaces of the work support before the top piece is clamped.

18. In a machine for sewing the top or tongue and side pieces for anunlasted moccasin shoe upper cut to be assembled with the outer surfacesdivergin from each other and the surfaces along the edges disposed at anangle with relation to each other smaller than the angle more remotefrom the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including awork penetrating instrument, a work support having Work engagingsurfaces disposed at an angle, corresponding to that of the outersurfaces along the edges of the moccasin pieces, and a presser acting onthe pieces to crowd the edges into the apex of the angularly disposedwork engaging surfaces of the work support, of a tip on the presserprovided with a first surface acting on the top piece of the moccasinand a second surface at an angle to the first surface acting on the sidepiece of the moccasin,

,and an adjustable pivot about which the presser is actuated towards andfrom the work support for changing the position of the presser at rightangles to its path of actuation towards and from the work support tocause one of said presser tip surfaces to engage a work piece before theother.

19. The method of progressively assembling the top piece and vamp of amoccasin type shoe having their meeting edges beveled which comprisesimparting a step-by-step feeding movement to the pieces lengthwise oftheir edges into positions determined by guiding means acting along thebevel surfaces of the pieces to bring the edges into registerprogressively, and separately clamping the pieces in each position whilethus registered between successive feeding movements.

20. The method of progressively assembling and securing together the toppiece and vamp of a moccasin type shoe having their uncemented' meetingedges beveled which comprises impart- ---ship with the top piece whilemaintaining the top 21. The method of uniting the edges of the top andvamp pieces for an unlasted moccasin shoe upper cut with a pattern to beassembled with the outer surfaces diverging from each other at an obtuseangle and formed with bevels on the meeting edges to cause the outersurfaces along the edges to assume an acute angular relationship whenthe faces of the bevels are brought into register including the steps offlexing the vamp along the edge from obtuse angular relationship withthe top piece into acute angular relationship with the top piece whilemaintaining the top piece substantially in flattened condition to bringthe bevel faces into register, fastening I theflexed edge of the vamp tothe flattened top piece, and thereafter releasing the fastened pieces toenable the flexure in the vamp to be transferred at least partially tothe edge of the top piece.

22. The method of uniting the edges of the top and vamp pieces for anunlasted moccasin shoe upper cut with a pattern to be assembled with theouter surfaces diverging from-each other at an obtuse angle and formedwith bevels on the meeting edges to cause the outer surfaces along theedges to assume an acute angular relationship when the faces of thebevels are brought into register, including the steps of flexing thevamp along the edge from obtuse angular relationship with the top pieceinto acute angular relationship with the top piece while maintaining thetop piece substantially in flattened condition to bring the bevel facesinto register, sewing the flexed edge of the vamp to the flattened toppiece with stitches passing through the registering bevel faces, andthereafter releasing the sewed pieces to enable the flexure in the vampto be transferred, at least partially, to the edge of the top piece.

23. The method of uniting the edges of the top and vamp pieces for anunlasted moccasin shoe upper cut with a pattern to be assembled with theouter surfaces diverging from each other at an obtuse angle and formedwith bevels on the meeting edges to cause the outer surfaces along theedges to assume an acute angular relationship when the faces of thebevels are brought into J register, including the steps of flexing thevamp along the edge from obtuse angular relationship with the top pieceinto acute angular relationpiece substantially in flattened condition tobring the bevel faces into register, sewing the flexed edge of the vampto the flattened top piece with stitches passing through the registeringbevel faces, turning the flattened top piece within its own plane whilesewing about the toe portion of the seam, and releasing the sewed piecesto enable the bent edge of the vamp to straighten and the flattened toppiece to be bent along its edge by pressure of the bevel face on thevamp.

24. The method of uniting the edges of the top and vamp pieces for anunlasted moccasin shoe upper cut with a pattern to be assembled with theouter surfaces diverging from each other at an obtuse angle and formedwith bevels on the meeting edges to cause theouter surfaces along theedges to assume an acute angular relationship when the faces of thebevels are brought into register, including the steps of flexing thevamp progressively along the edge from obtuse angular relationship withthe top piece into acute angular relationship with the top piece whilemaintaining the top piece in flattened condition to bring the bevelfaces on both pieces into register, sewing the flexed edge of the vampto the flattenecl top piece as the bending operation progresses withstitches passing through the registering bevel faces, and releasing thesewed pieces continuously, directly following the sewing operation, toenable at least a portion of the flexure in the vamp to be transferredprogressively to the side piece.

25. In a machine for sewing the top or tongue and side pieces for anunlasted moccasin shoe upper cut to be assembled with the outer surfacesdiverging from each other and the surfaces along the edges disposed atan angle with re lation to each other smaller than the angle more remotefrom the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including awork penetrating instrument, a work support having work engagingsurfaces disposed at an angle corresponding to that of vthe outersurfaces along the edges of the moccasin pieces, and a presser actingonthe pieces to crowd the edges into the apex of the angularly disposedwork engaging surfaces of the work support, of a centering fln on thework support opposite the point of operation of the work penetratinginstrument arranged to engage the pieces and to act with the worksupport in bringing the edges of the pieces progressively into registerin the path of the stitch forming devices.

FRED ASHWORTH.

